February 06, 2007 New York
As a concept, Victorian chairs aren't as compelling as, say, Marie Antoinette at a New York Dolls concert (one theme from last season). And as a collection, it didn't have the same spunk as some of Sui's earlier efforts. But there's always something to like in the designer's magpie piles of coats, sweaters, and frocks. Lacquered-silk anoraks layered under smocks or jumpers gave the show a sportier than usual edge. A pair of black lace party dressesworn, in keeping with the trend, over fitted turtleneckslooked like winners. And her silver-fox patchwork coat was so chic that even those furniture tassels could be forgiven.