February 13, 2007 London
Still, anyone can come up with a catchy theme. The test of true design drive is whether the execution takes the material somewhere else; equally important is whether idea and execution merge to apply to a believable customer. Herz and Fidler's jackets and short coats ticked both of those boxes. Minutely quilted wool and silk numbers with slight standaway volumes had a grown-up sophistication, while waterproof anoraks in color-blocked black, cream, and mustard had a sporty zip.
If they're clever, the Aquascutum duo has the potential to appeal simultaneously to traditional customers as well as to a fashion fiend who just might be tempted by a scarlet jacket that seems to be made of painted feathers (it was a jagged cotton and plastic, in fact). And that seems to be the direction the designers are safely headed in now.