Biba
LONDON, February 14, 2007
By Sarah Mower
It seemed a prescient move to bring back the Biba label two seasons ago. It resurfaced heavy seventies platforms just before anyone had gotten into them, and it proposed balloon-sleeved jersey dresses and silver lamé long-line cardigans before fashion turned in that direction. Trouble is, by now every mass-market retailer is churning out so many 60th-generation Biba ideas that the label's whole reason for being has been undermined.The Fall runway didn't give any evidence that the mother brand had thought of a way to save this situation. The flippy minidresses, ankle-grazing maxi coats, and cropped-flare mod suits looked like the kind of thing that's already overavailable in fast-fashion chains. Besides that, the presentation was amateurish and sloppy, especially in a week in which young independents have upped the ante in terms of polish and discipline. The desultory way the models stopped short before the end of the runway seemed a metaphor for the low energy behind the collection. If the designer, Bella Freud, wants to compete, she'll have to first improve the fabrics, and then slick up the way Biba shows.
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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