February 08, 2007 New York
Perhaps with an eye to his next quarter century, Rucci¿s loftiest creations were balanced by pieces with a rather more youthful appeal. Take, for instance, a natural Mongolian lamb chubby striped across its center with chocolate brown, or the beige chinchilla spiral jacket intercut with cognac leather macramé. It was easy to picture either of them draped over the shoulders of one of the fur-loving socials swanning about during fashion week. But the likeliest contender for the youth vote was a dress that fell in smoky tiers of organza to the floor, free of all embellishments save for a jewel suspended like a secret from a delicate back strap. For all that, if Rucci really wants to put a new generation under his couturier spell, he'll have to trim his overlong presentation, change the music, and lighten up the hair and makeup.