Chaiken
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 6, 2007
By Laird Borrelli
The spirit of Millicent Rogers haunted this all-American show like a dirndl-skirt-wearing, Navaho-art-collecting, globe-trotting ghost. Jeff Mahshie, who co-designs the line with Julie Chaiken, explained that they chose Rogers as their starting point because of her "chic, nomadic lifestyle," as well as the vivid, ethnographic colors—pungent tomato-reds and yolk-yellows—she pioneered in the 1940s.You could see that Millicent flair in the longer, slimmer cut of the skirts, the curvy glamour sheaths, and the fuller trousers. Front-row guests like Kelly Rowland and Juliana Margulies no doubt were most interested in the latter: Customers count on Chaiken for a well-cut pair of pants. This season, they can choose from a flannel sailor look, a full-cuffed option, or sporty cropped styles. Many of these were worn in a (typically Millicent) mannish manner, with cravats and hand-knit calvary jackets.
Less successful were the tuxedo looks and cummerbund-bound waists. There were also several anomalous sari pieces—apparently a reference to the cultural tourism undertaken by their style icon—and five "Taos" dresses in full-on sun-scorched primaries that were just a bit too much Millicent.
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Peter Soronen Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
