Malandrino
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 7, 2007
By Meenal Mistry
Malandrino's models walked with slick black caps of side-parted hair: a gamine 'do in homage to Zizi Jeanmaire, the French prima ballerina who lit up fifties Europe with her magical Carmen.Like the Spring show, which had a (slightly questionable) zing of eighties flavor, this was undeniably a retro moment, mining the sixties of Zizi's heyday (funnel-collared coats and graphic tunics) as well as the twenties (straight flapper dresses trimmed with marabou). For the most part, though, Malandrino avoided the dusty vintage pitfall, the one exception being a purple A-line coat that looked like it came off the rack at Resurrection. Pretty draped-jersey pieces, the least nostalgic look, tipped a hat not only to Jeanmaire but also to Malandrino's own dance background.
Over the past year, the designer has moved away from crafty fare and toward a cleaner look. Perhaps to fill a tactile void, she allowed herself to play with volume everywhere you turned—in the ballooning sleeves of a knit blazer, chic blouson jackets, and an iffy bubble evening gown.
In short, Malandrino packed into the collection everything that a modern-day Jeanmaire might tuck into her traveling trunks, from a sexy daytime suit to a kicky little beaded houndstooth shift for aperitifs avec her own modern-day Roland Petit.
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Peter Soronen Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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