It┐s not often that a new label emerges on the Milan runways, so it was with some enthusiasm that a small audience assembled for designer Mina Lee┐s debut Derercuny show. Until now, the small collection of prettily embellished clothes that glance at the trends rather than follow them blindly had been seen by appointment only. Chalk it up to first-timer jitters and inexperience, but some of the pieces (a gold jacquard matelassé skirt worn with a lamé blouse, and the bubble shapes) hinted perhaps too much at Prada and Marni. More discouraging, a pair of long tiered dresses in woven cashmere with an overly stiff drape just didn┐t do enough to flatter the models.

Those issues aside, there were enough good things here to bring the crowd back again next time—from the sculptural black coats, including the requisite cape, to the elegant cocktail dresses with hand-constructed bows at the bust. The young company can be thankful, too, that it has been backed by Samsung. Judging by the A-list models booked, the expensive-looking fabrications, and the over-the-knee flat boots, Derercuny has pockets deep enough to give its talent time to work out the kinks.