Derek Lam
NEW YORK, February 6, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
So long, Claire McCardell. The American sportswear pioneer who was the inspiration behind Derek Lam's fine Spring collection has been replaced by something altogether sexier—a change of direction that seemed to interfere with the designer's better instincts. The first clue was a pair of black leather-and-suede riding pants—leggings, really—that trotted down the runway with a boxy, asymmetrical boiled-felt coat. Other exhibits included a bustier dress, a clingy bolero worn with a flippy tweed skirt, and an otherwise office-ready gray flannel sheath with corsetry seaming on the bodice. The clothes' exaggerated shoulders, high nipped waists, and abbreviated hemlines looked like a wink and nod in the direction of Azzedine Alaïa and Hervé Léger. The trouble being, these designers were big news last season, which made Lam's show, for all its sexy wearability, look derivative.But if there were shades of other collections in his day looks, evening was pure Derek. The goddess gowns he did for Spring were reinterpreted as flirty cocktail numbers, one in gold silk lamé. And the trio of graceful double-crepe columns in black, royal, and white that closed the show were, simply put, drop-dead gorgeous.
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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