Dries Van Noten
PARIS, February 28, 2007
By Sarah Mower
Dries Van Noten has an almost tribal following of faithful customers who unconditionally love and buy what he designs, season in, season out. Last time around, that band was joined by a hardcore cohort of fashion enthusiasts who spotted something brilliantly right-on in his clean, sporty, brightly colored Spring collection. Sadly, that enthusiasm ebbed away for Fall amid a disappointing welter of dreary colors and awkward shapes.Something of the sporty theme was still there, though, in adaptations of classic, quilted-nylon country jackets, which, granted, nodded to the puffer-ish theme that¿s been generally cropping up in the collections. Van Noten¿s other idea, true to his taste for multiethnic references, was Indian paisley, which came abstracted into black-and-white print or picked out in sequined embroideries. Neither of those devices was enough to lift things anywhere near the level of last season¿s blockbuster, however. Partly it was due to the relentless parade of gray, mustard, khaki, and dulled orange, though equal blame must be attributed to the baggy dropped-crotch divided skirts, and the ugly orthopedic shoes with ankle-thickening socks. Once sifted by expert buyers, there will likely be nothing much here to turn off the women who rely on Van Noten. But in this show, the characteristic alternative joyousness of his perspective sank from view.
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Peter Soronen Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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