Erdem
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 12, 2007
By Sarah Mower
There was something in Erdem Moralioglu's program notes about Dumas' La Dame aux Camélias meeting Derek Jarman's Jubilee. Ignore it. Erdem enthusiasts should instead rush straight to the end of his collection. There, they'll find the cream of what he does, and it is, indeed, creamy: pretty concoctions whipped up in French lace and flowy fan-pleated tiers that somehow manage not to come over as sickly sweet.These, along with billowy-sleeved poet blouses and long drop-waisted dresses, have emerged over four seasons as Erdem's signatures—and the more richly he lays on the effects, the better they look. In a conscious bid to add variety (and some pieces whose price tags might not make buyers blanch), he's also working with Mackintosh, the original British rainwear manufacturer, to bring interesting cuts to raincoats. Where he goes wrong is when he skimps. His opening dresses in his signature insect prints were spoiled by being too short and too tight—or maybe that was the punk influence. Either way, they were a mistake, because the wispy Erdem couldn't muster a punk gesture if his life depended on it. He should stay with romance, and push it as far as he can.
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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