February 11, 2007 London
These, along with billowy-sleeved poet blouses and long drop-waisted dresses, have emerged over four seasons as Erdem's signaturesand the more richly he lays on the effects, the better they look. In a conscious bid to add variety (and some pieces whose price tags might not make buyers blanch), he's also working with Mackintosh, the original British rainwear manufacturer, to bring interesting cuts to raincoats. Where he goes wrong is when he skimps. His opening dresses in his signature insect prints were spoiled by being too short and too tightor maybe that was the punk influence. Either way, they were a mistake, because the wispy Erdem couldn't muster a punk gesture if his life depended on it. He should stay with romance, and push it as far as he can.