Beyoncé radiating heat at the Golden Globes in his plunging metallic dress—proof positive that Elie Saab's name has been firmly established on the red carpet. Now, he's set his sights on after-dark occasions that don't necessarily entail a press line. There were eighties-ish one-sleeve billowy tops and stretch minis for nightclubbing, baby dolls in black lace for 21st-birthday parties, and long velvet dresses with blouson tops and bias-cut skirts for charity balls. Of course, you never know when you'll run into a camera—which explains the light-catching sequins that decorated so many looks, and why his faux leather (easier than the real stuff to embroider, apparently) had a shiny, wet, photo-ready look.

When he did go full-on glam, it was with emerald-green and violet crystals arrayed in sunburst patterns on a base of black. Out in Hollywood, of course, bare shoulders trumped sparkle at the Oscars, so a strapless black organza number with that faux leather accenting the bust looks like a bigger winner.

There were exactly zero pants on Saab's runway, and his shorts came in one length only: micro. What to make of the lack of real daywear, especially on the eve of the opening of his first Paris store? Put simply, Saab lives for the night, and so do his ladies.