Etro
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 20, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
Veronica Etro swapped the psychedelic sixties paisleys and magic-mushroom prints of Spring for twenties constructivism, with some timely Art Deco flash thrown in. The show opened with this season's by-now-familiar round-shouldered, short-sleeved coat with deep fur cuffs. Hers came in a natural linen tweed decorated with geometric blocks of color and slim saffron satin pants. From there, Etro started working the artsy (often over-the-top) layers: belted side-button tunic vests over pussy-bow silk-print blouses with willowy, high-waisted trousers; and a plaid anorak with a fur collar topping a purple pleated skirt with buckles at the sides. For evening, she showed drop-waist numbers, some with crystal embroidery at the hem, others beaded along the racer-back straps. Longer tank dresses were suspended from the shoulders with ropes of jet jewelry. A silk-velvet sack coat as vivid as a tapestry stood out for its simplicity.No matter which decade is the inspiration, a rich interplay of prints and textures is the house's trademark; this season, though, Etro let that exuberance get the better of her. She isn't the only designer guilty of overlong presentations in Milan, but a more thorough edit, not to mention less flamboyant styling, could¿ve sharpened what she said was her message about languid sensuality.
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
