Giles Deacon has always been a nature-lover, and after a few virtual flying expeditions via Google Earth, he was off on his Fall theme. It came to encompass earthy forest-floor colors, porcupine quills, leaves, tribal prints, Chinese pheasant feathers, and, along the way, a showpiece constructed of fans that may be fashion┐s first-ever dress based on a sea cucumber.

As always in a Giles collection, though, the starting point is never where things end up. ┐We just add and add and go mad, and we got on a real roll this time,┐ was the best explanation he had for the anti-method that produced a duchesse satin gown jigsawed together from 550 pattern pieces, a leather sheath decorated with grommets, gargantuan knitwear, a coq-feather bolero, and a puffy ball gown sprouting extravagant tail feathers.

It makes for an expansive show with links that are perplexing to follow, until you realize that none really exist. Deacon┐s increasingly complex, handworked clothes are best considered individually, just as they are rendered in his studio, with prints and embroideries, corsetry, and padding applied by a small army of friends. No big thrusting vision, then; but a sense that a jolly good time was had by all who made it.