Givenchy
PARIS, February 28, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
Riffing in a straightforward way on the naval theme that he'd more opaquely alluded to in his Spring Couture show, Riccardo Tisci sent out his most concise and focused ready-to-wear collection yet for Givenchy. All it took, according to his program notes, was a Japanese marine jacket circa the 1920's.Coats and jackets looked particularly strong. A navy fur with a deep, rich pile was the very essence of opulence. Easier to wear, and sure to sell by the boatload, were the fitted peacoats and blazers, including a few winners with face-framing collars cut to look like oversize ribbons.
Skirts came long and lean and trailing fishtail hems, while black dresses were wrapped asymmetrically about the body. For trousers, Tisci showed two distinct styles: The first was essentially a sailor pant, high-waisted and narrow through the thigh, then flaring dramatically at the ankle; the less said about the droopy leather drawers, the better.
In short, all wasn't perfect. The brass buttons that decorated dresses and coats in Art Deco patterns will, for those who want to wear them beyond the runway, be better in smaller doses. The twisting and pleated pink party frocks seemed out of place among the predominantly black and navy palette. And the white opaque hosiery and glittery heels were styling missteps. But all in all, Tisci has really improved. Good for him.
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
