Hermès
PARIS, March 3, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
Jean Paul Gaultier skipped the dockside mise-en-scène of last season's Hermès presentation and concentrated strictly on the clothes. Good move. From the first look (a black crocodile bomber over a ruffle-hemmed pencil skirt) to the last (the same jacket, this time buffed to a high sheen, tossed over one shoulder of a long silk dress), the designer was at his hyper-focused best. Every single superluxe piece exuded the faultless elegance that is the brand's calling card.He started with ultrasoft leather outerwear—peacoats, swing coats, and tail coats. He worked his way through tweedy brown suits, Fair Isle cardigans, and sweater dresses in warm autumn hues. He riffed on a man's tuxedo. If the knit leggings he showed with many of the looks meant that his clients may have to go elsewhere for their pants, there was no shortage of accessories, from biker caps (some in sheared fur) to over-the-knee boots. Gaultier's amusing takes on the house's signature Kelly bag included soft, foldable suede versions, miniature crocodile styles, and the oversize number he came galloping out with himself.
Rounding out the show were draped gowns in velvet dévoré or chiffon topped by grand, floor-sweeping trenches. The ne plus ultra came in matte forest-green crocodile. A conspicuously ostentatious moment, no doubt, but the designer had more than earned this little indulgence with the smart, rich, classic clothes that came before.
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Peter Soronen Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
