To the average American fashion customer, Iceberg is still a bit of an unknown quantity. But with the benefit of some creative input from Giambattista Valli, a stablemate at parent company Gilmar, the Italian label is doing its best to change that. The Fall collection tapped into some key trends, starting with the quilted cocoon coat that opened the show. Other strong outerwear included a fur-trim army-green parka with sporty glamour to spare, and a puffer jacket in safety-orange tucked and folded into this season¿s capelike shape. Mongolian lamb chubbies were on target, too, save for the superfluous contrasting color straps that cinched the torso.

There were a few too many tricky details like those. The sashes crisscrossing oversize cowl-neck sweaters, and the decorative resin chips fastened to a miniskirt, weighed things down. But the unstructured eveningwear was refreshingly simple (the best being an asymmetric-strap goddess dress). All in all, this collection should help bump the brand identity up a notch.