Jens Laugesen
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 16, 2007
By Sarah Mower
During his break from the London runway, Jens Laugesen wasn't idle: He went off to Paris and won himself the €55,000 ANDAM fellowship, sponsored by LVMH. Now he's back with a collection that showed how he's moved on from where he left off. He's still recognizably the designer who was obsessed by strict, black Helmut Lang-ish urbanism, but now things are calibrated a few more degrees toward the feminine and flouncy.Caped coats and short flared skirts—of the ilk of the minicrini/skating skirt/dirndl seen elsewhere in London—proved Laugesen is fully locked onto the trend radar. His silhouettes, either a long, lean streak in leggings or that nip-waisted full skirt, had high necklines with stock ties, and zones of techno-sparkle worked into them (the leather jodhpurs, we won't discuss).
For evening, he pursued his favorite black even more relentlessly. There were some good tuxedo looks and a fine white cotton pie-frill-necked shirt, but then it all went on a good ten minutes too long. Surprisingly for a career minimalist, Laugesen hasn't learned the art of brevity. The odd but true fact is that audiences can sometimes like a collection more, the less they see of it.
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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