You couldn┐t help but feel a twinge of déjà vu: This was the second Paris showing for the peripatetic Wolfgang Joop, and it was an improvement on his first, but at times it felt like too unsubtle an homage to Alexander McQueen—from the models┐ frizzed and upswept hair down to the handkerchief hems of the bias-cut and asymmetrically draped frocks. Among the more obvious references were chiffon dresses with soft little bustles at the lower back and pleats fanning out from upside-down U-shaped seaming at the torso.

Like McQueen, Joop enjoys a bit of severe tailoring, and this collection had that, too, in the form of a black peaked-shoulder double-breasted jacket worn with a wrap skirt and net underlay, and coats so minutely studded with beads that they resembled shagreen. He isn't the first designer to propose jodhpurs this season, but that doesn't mean women are likely to go for them. On the other hand, a forties-ish dress with almost New Look proportions was a winner. Joop smartly lightened up on the accessories in general, but those PVC tights, especially in prophylactic nude, were a definite don┐t.