Wunderkind
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, February 26, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
You couldn¿t help but feel a twinge of déjà vu: This was the second Paris showing for the peripatetic Wolfgang Joop, and it was an improvement on his first, but at times it felt like too unsubtle an homage to Alexander McQueen—from the models¿ frizzed and upswept hair down to the handkerchief hems of the bias-cut and asymmetrically draped frocks. Among the more obvious references were chiffon dresses with soft little bustles at the lower back and pleats fanning out from upside-down U-shaped seaming at the torso.Like McQueen, Joop enjoys a bit of severe tailoring, and this collection had that, too, in the form of a black peaked-shoulder double-breasted jacket worn with a wrap skirt and net underlay, and coats so minutely studded with beads that they resembled shagreen. He isn't the first designer to propose jodhpurs this season, but that doesn't mean women are likely to go for them. On the other hand, a forties-ish dress with almost New Look proportions was a winner. Joop smartly lightened up on the accessories in general, but those PVC tights, especially in prophylactic nude, were a definite don¿t.
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
