You've got to hand it to him. Just as spirits were sagging and minds were reaching the fashion-saturation point, Jean Paul Gaultier sent out model Coco Rocha in a red jacket and tartan kilt with a plume of feathers in her hair to perform a high-stepping Celtic dance. It was hard to match that first moment for sheer pleasure, but he mostly succeeded, with a collection straight out of the Scottish Highlands (cue the Braveheart sound track).

After Rocha's little jig came brightly hued, oversize plaids. The most novel example was a fuzzy angora skirt worn with an oxblood python motorcycle jacket. In a switch from last season's sportif mood, the luxe quotient was high. Colorful argyles were knitted not from wool but sheared mink. What earned the most cheers was a set of timely mixed-material coats in plaid taffeta spliced with fox fur dyed to match. Trenches were absolutely dizzying in their variety: Some came in leather, others discreetly edged or lined in it; a few seemed to sport built-in, utilitarian backpacks.

The only really major misstep was the pointless lacy face coverings: These elaborate crochets looked much lovelier when they turned up as softly draped dresses.