Jonathan Saunders
LONDON, February 14, 2007
By Sarah Mower
"That is what modern is meant to be!" one influential American retailer called out as he left Jonathan Saunders' show. "And wouldn't it be great to see an Oscar girl in a gown like that?" He was raving about the remarkable, vertically pieced, linear dresses at the end of the show—either asymmetrically sliced patchworks of solids and zones of print, or dark columns with narrow triangles of fluid chiffon flowing in front, tethered to the waist with contrast belts.Their graphic energy and athletic presence would certainly make a woman stand tall and distinguished in a red-carpet herd—or any other, come to that. The same went for most of the daywear: coats and dresses also constructed from narrow panels of royal blue and black, sometimes with an inset of white-and-beige stripes and contrasting horizontals to emphasize the waist.
Saunders said he'd developed the idea partly from looking at the linear stripes in the work of the artist Daniel Buren. The clever thing was the way he manipulated material and color to completely flattering effect. By reducing his vivid dégradé and scribbly textured prints to strips running center-front, he made each dress look willow-slim. It was a huge stride forward for this young designer, marking his transition from a genius printmaker to someone who is beginning to manipulate shape in an ingenious contemporary manner.
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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