Roberto Cavalli's glamazons all but disappeared from his signature collection last season in favor of a softer kind of beauty. But they were out in full force at his Just Cavalli show today, alongside ski bunnies, biker chicks, and what one editor called toy poodles—a reference to the no doubt unwitting effect produced by one too many pairs of fur-trimmed ankle booties and miles of bare leg.

From the barely decent bubble minis in candy brights to superskinny pants laced up the calves or cinched with bondage straps, there was nothing tame about this show. Even cable-knit sweaters fell suggestively from bare shoulders. Oversize knits like shrugs and cardigans—often layered over denim or metallic leather jackets—played a starring role, as did fur hoods, capes, and boleros. Particularly racy was a snug black bomber lined in white shearling with a matching short skirt. Yes, Cavalli was up to his old tricks, and the 24-hour partywear inevitably came off as much too much for the pared-down crowd. The designer's riposte might be that it's working at retail: A Just Cavalli flagship is set to open on Fifth Avenue in New York this summer, and 15 additional U.S. stores are planned for the next 18 months.