Eveningwear was a natural brand extension for the Italian lingerie maker La Perla. But its designer, Alessandro Dell¿Acqua—who is maintaining a very low profile at the label, not even coming out for the requisite post-show bow—is beginning to turn the line into a believable all-around resource. To wit, he sent out a sexy day suit and fur coats (in something the company has been calling ¿kidassian¿) that looked like they might have been plucked from the closet of Kate Moss.

If anything, it was the gowns that came out looking a little complicated. That was certainly the case with the lace bustier that peeked from beneath fans and folds of black crepe, not to mention a long number with raw-edged panels overlaid atop one another to create an interplay of sheer and opaque. (Some of the separates were likewise tricked out with crystals, feathers, and other potentially clunky bells and whistles.) But a cocktail-length goddess dress, draped from the shoulder to expose the underworkings of a push-up bra, displayed a lighter hand and looked like a lot more fun. Ditto a liquid-copper strapless style with a panel of black lace inset in the back.

As for that standout skirtsuit, it came in unadorned alpaca, this season¿s must-have luxe fabric. More of this sort of thing, and people will want to start paying the collection closer attention.