Autumn is the time to turn up the heat, and José Enrique Oña Selfa didn┐t disappoint on that score. Gone were the A-line shifts, lush floral prints, and mod silvers of spring, and in their place were tough-chic black motorcycle leathers, fur coats, and chubbies, and a turquoise suede skirtsuit as supple as it was bright. All that fit in with the vampy, slightly eighties vibe of the season, as did a black dress with gold sequin embroidery, the Lurex touches on a long tank and a crisscross bodice dress, and the matching heavy-metal eye makeup.

So what exactly is the identity of this historic Spanish leather-goods brand? Beyond the exotic-skin bags buffed to a high shine, it┐s hard to tell. Should LVMH ever want it to rival the French luxury houses in its stable—or simply make it a competitor in the U.S., which was not well represented at the show—Oña Selfa will have to learn to take a lead on trends rather than simply follow them.