For Spring, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi had done a futuristic take on Marimekko; for Fall, it was a futuristic take on Franz Kline. Abstract expressionism: That explains the splashy prints. And the cool austerity. Tailored menswear for women was the focus of the first half of the show. Fur was also abundant; one that looked like astrakhan had hirsute beaver sleeves. But what about the knitwear, you ask? After all, this is Malo, home of luxurious Italian cashmeres. Knits were represented by untraditional "Rasta" pieces, like the opening look, covered with twists of yarn that looked almost like dreadlocks. There was a mohair mini that looked like it might purr.

Some of Aquilano and Rimondi's artsy-craftsy techniques worked better than others. A feathered and beaded coat was over-the-top fabulous. The pieces with outsize jingle-jangle plastic beads, not so much. In the audience were Lenny Kravitz, a Romanoff princess, and Italy's answer to the Traina sisters, Matilde and Beatrice Borromeo. How these high-profile Malo customers will react to some of Aquilano and Rimondi's experiments is TBD, but the collection was well-edited, and overall it felt like the designers were pushing the brand forward.