Marchesa
NEW YORK, February 5, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig took some critical hits for unfinished hems and sloppy seams at their debut runway show last season. But from the looks of their Fall collection, shown tableau-style at Diane von Furstenberg¿s old West 12th Street digs, they learned from the experience.Perhaps the androgynous Marlene Dietrich-meets-the-Duchess-of-Windsor theme simply suited them better than Spring¿s hyper-romantic flowers. Or maybe their recent red-carpet coups—Sienna Miller and J. Lo at the Golden Globes; Anne Hathaway at the SAG Awards—have boosted their confidence.
In any case, there was newfound polish to the satin chiffon dresses with embroidered waists that have become their calling card. The girls love a rhinestone, and they hand-sewed ropes of them to a violet velvet strapless chemise for a trompe l¿oeil necklace effect. And there was more ambition, too, in the black-and-white pieces that riffed sexily on a man¿s tuxedo—although a simpler bib-front frock was more successful than a party dress with a tricky bodice made from what looked like the collars of a jacket and a shirt. And if the sweeping ball gown in silk tulle with dégradé feather bodice is too grand for today¿s starlets, they¿ll be angling for first dibs on the ostrich-plume cocktail number with a duchesse satin belt.
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Peter Soronen Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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