Marni
MILAN, February 21, 2007
By Sarah Mower
Legion are the women who want to be in the Marni-girl gang these days. On the runway, designer Consuelo Castiglioni's knack for layering up sporty-techno bits and pieces with shiny black PVC and odd shots of bright color and print is pushing this label out in front as one of the most refreshing forces in fashion. Last summer, she simply put sport-leggings under her favorite tunics, and the world ran after her. Now that she's sneaking elements of technical outdoorsy clothing into her wardrobe, the same thing will happen again. One glance at Marni's genius nylon platform-soled ski boots will set off a fan avalanche, guaranteed.It's partly the designer's talent for striding ahead without breaking continuity that does it. Her Marni girl has often been typecast as an eclectic, original spirit, but Castiglioni's no woolly thinker: She follows her ideas through from one season to the next, and people love her for it. Thus, she's playing with the same sort of shapes, like plain loose tunics and gray parallel pants, but is now mixing them up with nylon T-shirts, neoprene vests, PVC skirts, and down linings, then cinching it all in with a hefty webbing belt. If this sounds a bit of a mess, it's not—the really clever part is that the cheerfully arty charm of Marni carries it all along. This season it's there in the bright, multicolored marbled prints; the color blocking of magenta, royal blue, and green; the shaggy beaver and goat-hair coats. In the end, Marni achieves a unique, offbeat glamour along with a life-enhancing playfulness that is irresistible.
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Peter Soronen Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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