The jumpsuit is a puzzling trend. It has the one-stop-shopping appeal of a dress, yes, but none of the ease. There's no simple way to get one on, and once you have, chances are you'll look like a paratrooper crossed with a car mechanic. In other words, approach with caution—a warning that went unheeded at MaxMara, where the boilersuits, coveralls, and ski suits came in all manner of styles: flannels and satins, long-sleeved and tank, full through the leg or tapered. Another strange recurrence were the show's dreadlock knits—thick dangling fringes edging the sleeves of jackets and sweaters, and in some cases multiplying across the back.

Both concepts served only to distract from the great-looking coats that MaxMara is known for. This season the best were the ankle-grazing belted shearlings and the equally long parkas in camo green with safety-orange lining. There was no ignoring the army jackets, however, with their epaulets in electric bright blue and acid yellow; or the shocking-orange tartan pants (cut nice and slim) that were paired with a snug cropped bomber. Chic practicality has long been the essence of this brand, but, all in all there just wasn't enough of it here.