The pleasures of a Martin Grant show are found in the smallest of details: the sculptural fan-pleated bodice of a strapless dress, the perfectly spherical clear buttons descending the front of a collarless, bubble-hem coat, the way one strap of a cocktail number is designed to slip provocatively off the shoulder, while the other remains demurely in place. These touches and more were on display on Grant's runway today—evidence that, after a brief, ill-advised dip into the sportif side of fashion, the designer has returned to his dressmaking roots and the exacting tailoring for which he's known.

Working in a palette of black, white, gray, and purple, Grant captured the season's voluminous but structured silhouette, without seeming trendy. The show started off with an A-line, hooded bouclé coat, and there were sway-back jackets, egg-shaped coats, and wide-leg pants for day. For evening, he focused on tulip and bubble dresses that often came with a second cutaway cocooning skirt. The highlights included a pair of satiny coat-dresses, one with a pouf at the upper back, the other flaring out from the shoulders like a cape. Best of all, though, was the finale—a silver lamé siren gown that, in contrast to the other rounded shapes, skimmed the body like a breeze.

Just one quibble: The pacing of the show was far too stately for the seen-it-all, end-of-fashion-week crowd.