Missoni
MILAN, February 23, 2007
By Sarah Mower
In a season when the forties and the seventies are a rising influence, Missoni incorporated them both. It's hardly a novelty to tie the decades together, though, because "the forties" were the rediscovery of the early seventies—which just so happens to be the time when the Missonis were first knitting together their family business. The trouble is, so many are stomping their platforms on this well-trodden era this season that it's shown there's a fine line—no, a chasm—between doing it badly and making it seem like not such a lame idea after all.Angela Missoni came out on the right side of the line, even if she did use the familiar devices of Rita Hayworth's hair, Marlene Dietrich's tip-tilted hat, and the inevitable Bowie sound track. But what's the distinction between Missoni's cape-sleeved printed dresses, big-shouldered furs, balloon sleeves, tailored flares, Deco jerseys and everyone else's? It's largely a deft wielding of the hard-to-handle dusty seventies palette. Exact choices of maroon, brown, beige, mustard, dusty pink, and petrol blue marked Missoni best-in-class in Milan. Even irregularly pieced triangular Deco patchworks (fully murdered in several collections elsewhere) turned into a double-knit patchwork dress and a shorter shell version that actually looked likable—both were helped immeasurably by sexy gathers shaping the bustline. When Missoni keeps the confidence of her feminine instincts like that, things go well. What she might learn is not to be panicked by conflicting trend news. The demerit in this show was the unstoppable short circle skirt that kept popping up, which seemed not just out of character with the collection, but like a panic reaction to the Azzedine Alaïa trend that's currently doing the rounds.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
A
-
B
Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
C
-
D
D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
E
Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fashion East Fendi -
G
Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
I
Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
J
J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
K
Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
L
L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
O
Oscar de la Renta -
P
Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Peter Soronen Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
W
Wunderkind -
Y
Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
