Marc Jacobs
NEW YORK, February 5, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
When the red velvet curtain finally opened, Marc Jacobs' 56 models were arrayed tableau vivant-style in front of an enormous set of French doors—the kind you might see in a Paris salon. What you noticed first were the hats. Multicolored, with knit crowns, and short or wide brims, they made the gangly teenage girls onstage hold themselves like proper ladies. Yes, fashion's favorite change agent was at it again.Last season's billowy layers were nowhere in sight. The collection began with a long coat, ribbed sweater, and trousers with loose stirrups that gave them a clean, sharp line. Moving on, Jacobs showed printed satin and matte jersey shirtdresses to the mid-calf, and belted alpaca tunics over slim cropped pants and knee-length skirts. There were jumpsuits straight out of the seventies. "I wanted something narrower," said the designer, describing the show's new silhouette. Duchesse satin minidresses were cut trim and A-line with a fringe of pleats at the hem, or they came draped, wrapped, and sashed from the shoulders.
This was American sportswear, but with a European sense of impeccability. Some might call it "grown-up." Jacobs, explaining that the collection is a reflection of what's going on with him personally, called it restraint. (Though the term can hardly be used to describe the show's stacks of plastic bangles and Bakelite-heavy handbags.) One look at the designer and you're reminded that he's been spending time at the gym—those were pecs beneath his crisp blue shirt. The experiments with volume that he's been focused on in the last several collections have now gone the way of his extra weight. It might take a season for designers who've followed his lead before to catch on. But less, when it looks this chic, really is more.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
A
-
B
Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
C
-
D
D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
E
Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fashion East Fendi -
G
Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
I
Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
J
J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
K
Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
L
L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
O
Oscar de la Renta -
P
Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Peter Soronen Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
W
Wunderkind -
Y
Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
