The massive gold peace sign at the back of the runway could've meant Moschino's audience was in for more of the military looks seen elsewhere this week, but that couldn't have been further from the case. Instead, designer Rosella Jardini focused on the innocence of the sixties, as exemplified by the bubble silhouettes that are still popping up all over Milan. The collection started all sweetness and light with a swingy brocade coat-dress. A gold laser-cut leather pinafore, a short navy taffeta shift with bunches of rosettes at the back, and a lamp-shade coat in red satin also kept the look young, as did the sporty black fabric used for such pieces as a one-shoulder dress.

The collection was pretty enough, in other words, but somewhat tepid by house standards. Where was the signature wackiness? The only hint of the late Franco Moschino's madcap wit was in a couple of slogan T-shirts (in the style of Frankie Goes to Hollywood or House of Holland, depending on your generation) that read "MOSCHINO SAYS LOVE." A few more surprising gestures like that would've made the show more interesting.