Maurizio Pecoraro makes it his business to keep an eye on the way the fashion winds are blowing. Mixed in among his twist-front dresses, full trousers, and a check suit were bugle-beaded shells and matching skirts, slouchy varsity cardigans, sack coats, and other twenties references that started appearing in New York two weeks ago.

Short-sleeve jackets came with deep fur cuffs, necklines were trimmed with gem-studded chiffon, and waists were loosely cinched with velvet bows. One short fur jacket looked like it had been dipped in liquid gold. Pecoraro steered the heavily ornamented collection away from becoming a predictable Poiret revival, though, by keeping the silhouettes fresh. For instance, a satin tunic dress topped by a trompe l'oeil velvet cardigan (they were in fact attached) was abbreviated at the upper thigh. But in the end, the models' too-literal marcel waves and red lips gave the pretty clothes a vintage feel, when what they needed was a modern edge.