Marios Schwab has the right instincts about moving away from the neon-bright, body-conscious, early nineties vibe with which he and Christopher Kane ignited new interest in London last year. The challenge lies in gauging the speed at which to do it, and in successfully developing some fresh angles that feel true and sincere—all while offering something sensible to sell in the bargain.

He opened his collection with a hexagonally pieced nip-waist jacket with a curve in the back that stood away from the body like a geodesic dome. Cutting hexagons and mathematically fitting them around the human form is a pastime Schwab devised last summer, and now he¿s applying it to puffers. Cut into hourglass shapes and skating dresses, these carried a distinct air of Gaultier Junior, circa 1989. They were also the designer's personal response to the futuristic-sporty agenda that¿s been in the air since last fall.

Schwab is too methodical about weaving in new strands of thought to leave it at that. He¿s also working on a fresh approach to dresses. He should. The tight body-line ones, even with new iridescent metal plates worked into the bodice, are beginning to be yesterday¿s news. More interesting were the soft asymmetries he wrapped into sport-fleece tops and scarf-lashed necklines (a reference to Romeo Gigli, perhaps?). Some of this read as a work in progress, but with the intense Schwab, it¿s guaranteed he¿ll have developed it into more sophisticated form next season.