February 12, 2007 London
He opened his collection with a hexagonally pieced nip-waist jacket with a curve in the back that stood away from the body like a geodesic dome. Cutting hexagons and mathematically fitting them around the human form is a pastime Schwab devised last summer, and now he¿s applying it to puffers. Cut into hourglass shapes and skating dresses, these carried a distinct air of Gaultier Junior, circa 1989. They were also the designer's personal response to the futuristic-sporty agenda that¿s been in the air since last fall.
Schwab is too methodical about weaving in new strands of thought to leave it at that. He¿s also working on a fresh approach to dresses. He should. The tight body-line ones, even with new iridescent metal plates worked into the bodice, are beginning to be yesterday¿s news. More interesting were the soft asymmetries he wrapped into sport-fleece tops and scarf-lashed necklines (a reference to Romeo Gigli, perhaps?). Some of this read as a work in progress, but with the intense Schwab, it¿s guaranteed he¿ll have developed it into more sophisticated form next season.