"I'm German. I like things to be on time," rasped Kai Kühne, trying to explain that he was as frustrated as everyone else by the late, late start (an hour and twenty minutes, to be precise) of today's show. It wasn't just the lapse in Prussian punctuality that made it clear Kühne is experiencing some growing pains. He is by his own admission still recovering from his difficult divorce from As Four, now rechristened Threeasfour, three seasons ago. And, as of this week, he also finds himself in the vulnerable circumstance of being between publicists.

Kühne described his collection, at times emotionally, as a coming to terms with that past and with growing up. True to his word, it did come across as his most mature to date. He lightened up his ornate "German origami" technique and produced chic Breakfast at Tiffany's dresses and an elegant shantung evening coat. Furs, in collaboration with Saga, boosted the luxury level.

Of course, this being the occasionally outrageous Kai, it wasn't all serious. A sculpted cable-knit jumpsuit and a coat crafted entirely from striped Hudson Bay blankets provided a dollop of wit. And as an apt exclamation mark for a designer who says he aspires to show at the Haute Couture in Paris one day, he closed today's slightly fraught proceedings with a bride in an ivory cotton-and-silk column striped with marabou.