February 07, 2007 New York
Kühne described his collection, at times emotionally, as a coming to terms with that past and with growing up. True to his word, it did come across as his most mature to date. He lightened up his ornate "German origami" technique and produced chic Breakfast at Tiffany's dresses and an elegant shantung evening coat. Furs, in collaboration with Saga, boosted the luxury level.
Of course, this being the occasionally outrageous Kai, it wasn't all serious. A sculpted cable-knit jumpsuit and a coat crafted entirely from striped Hudson Bay blankets provided a dollop of wit. And as an apt exclamation mark for a designer who says he aspires to show at the Haute Couture in Paris one day, he closed today's slightly fraught proceedings with a bride in an ivory cotton-and-silk column striped with marabou.