This collection marked Neil Barrett's second time showing womenswear on the runway—though like his fellow cult-inspiring men's designers, he has in fact been dressing the fairer sex for much longer simply by cutting his coolly tailored clothes into smaller sizes. This season, however, he decided not to translate his considerable talent for menswear quite so literally. In short, he wanted to give the ladies something of their own.

As admirable a sentiment as that might be, in practice it didn't really work out. In a severe palette of black, gray, and white, Barrett explored the idea of sculpted tailoring that stood away from the body, the result of hearing complaints from girlfriends about the limitations of stricter cuts. That meant boxy jackets with bracelet sleeves, pleated wide trousers, and cocoon coats, which, though executed well, seemed more likely to appeal to an older customer than the one Barrett targets. The result was that his fans were left wanting more. "Now that's what I like from him," whispered a young but influential stylist as a little motorcycle jacket in a chic dark-gray leather and slim pants finally passed by.