This industry veteran has, over the last few seasons, embarked on a fashion expedition of sorts through a world of ancient civilizations. After last spring┐s Mayan exploration, Miller ventured south to Peru for fall. But while she did accessorize with the traditional flat-brimmed hats—Peruvians are mad for hats—the folky theme was balanced by a refined sense of modernity and city chic.

Plenty of the patterns and prints she's come to be so closely associated with appeared, but the most interesting pieces were as plain as could be. Bubble-sleeved pea coat; slim, boyish trousers; and pinafore dresses worn over banker-striped shirts made a strong counterpoint to the graphic jacquards and blanket prints.

Swarmed by well-wishers backstage (including Ann Dexter-Jones, Sarah Wynter, and Cyndi Lauper), Miller joked about the fact that her label recently celebrated its quarter-century mark. "It's my birthday, not my anniversary!" she kidded the crowd. That's a long time for a label to hold strong, but by all accounts, Miller is as involved as ever in the day-to-day running of the business, and forging solidly ahead.