Nina Ricci
PARIS, March 4, 2007
By Sarah Mower
Olivier Theyskens said he wanted "to introduce a new wave of cool—something urban and gray-ish, but nonchalant, fragile, and superlight" at Nina Ricci. Since he's only just exited the now-defunct Rochas, the collection he showed, though suffused with his signature poetics, felt more transitional than definitive. Like several other designers of his age, Theyskens is accurately intuiting the fact that fashion needs to address a younger, more casual level of dressing, but at the same time, pressure is on him to stay within the fuzzy parameters of the not-so-defined genre of Ricci femininity.So to begin with, Theyskens focused on teardrop-shaped down-filled blousons, twisted sweater dresses, and diagonally zipped biker jackets that fell open in soft, petal-like folds. If there was a discernible Nina Ricci reference, it was in the spiraling cuts reminiscent of the crystal flacons of the classic Ricci L'Air du Temps perfume bottle. What with the palette of pearl gray, slate, and charcoal, and the introduction of denim, the collection fell somewhere in the range of Rick Owens, the L.A. designer whose clothes have a link to Belgian streetwise aesthetics.
That, of course, is no coincidence: Theyskens is himself a Belgian designer who, before his tenure at Rochas, made an impact, at the age of 21, with strong, dark collections that electrified fashion in the late nineties. His mood now is far more ethereal—the downy feathers floating from the girls' hair established that quite beautifully. Nevertheless, two soft but fiercely cut pantsuits served as a reminder of the tailoring talent that remained latent while he concentrated on femininity at Rochas. Excellent as those were, they added to the tension that hovered over the collection. Theyskens laid on an irresistible finale of trail-y, ragged-edged white and chartreuse fantasy gowns, but still, the question about where he intends to take Ricci was left in the air.
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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