Philosophy

NEW YORK, February 6, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
Taking a cue, perhaps, from fellow Milanese designer Miuccia Prada, Alberta Ferretti has taken her second collection on the road. Where Prada chose Paris for Miu Miu, Ferretti settled on New York. Her reasoning? A growing celebrity following, increasing stateside sales, and, not least, because "it's an exciting city for fashion." Indeed, her Philosophy debut could have been lost among the week's 220 other shows, but thanks to a convenient location just a few windy blocks from the Narciso Rodriguez show, editors and buyers breezed in and out of her hassle-free installation all night.

What they saw was signature Ferretti: pretty, retro frocks, this season with a glam fifties vibe. Think tweedy skirtsuits and strapless, nipped-waist dresses in jewel-tone satins or brocades, with a smattering of schoolgirl pinafores and trapeze coats thrown in. By design, there was nothing new here, but Ferretti did play to what she called New York's modernity, with techno touches like floral and transparent laminates, the latter of which gave a boxy plaid jacket and A-line skirt a glossy sheen. Will Ferretti be back for more next season? Unlike some other newcomers, she has the money and the infrastructure behind her, so if she wants to compete for New York's attention, she can.