Peter Jensen
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 12, 2007
By Sarah Mower
Peter Jensen, a Dane living in London, always finds an obscure muse to get him started. This season, it was a northern Renaissance princess, Christina of Denmark, who jumped out at him from a 1538 painting in the recent Holbein exhibition at the Tate Britain. He studied her coif and browless, alabaster looks, and observed her sober, black fur-trimmed mourning coat and white, high-frilled blouse, then turned his back and started playing around.The result, as always, had a kind of truehearted mix of Scandinavian inventiveness and practicality about it. Long, meringue ball gowns made of bunchy black nylon were layered over black sweaters; sensible wool checks were bias cut into jackets and coats; and funny little gray knitted hoods came off somewhere between medieval armor and jokey cats¿ ears.
Jensen¿s grounded focus on making nice-and-normal things to wear saved his theme from any pretentious historicism. What he¿s good at is providing interesting variations on young and sporty pieces like, say, teal corduroy shirtwaisters and jackets—the kind of honest, everyday stuff other designers overlook in the rush to make statements. On the other hand, the velvet-wrapped hair and pale Holbein makeup gave this tenth-anniversary collection quite enough charm to maintain the balance between art and commerce.
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Peter Soronen Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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