3.1 Phillip Lim
February 03, 2007 New York
With Grey Gardens' Edie Bouvier Beale as inspiration"pedigree minus prudence," Lim called it backstagethe designer showed his most ambitious collection by far. It opened with a prep schooler's bow-front shirt, plaid skirt, and double-breasted coat and it closed with an ivory debutante dress in laundered silk gazar. In between, Lim perfectly evoked the studied insouciance of the swish set with a short metallic shift over a fitted tee, a white boyfriend blazer worn with a strapless turquoise cocktail dress, and a tough leather jacket topping a pinafore. And even with all those layers, a head-to-toe look could still run less than a blouse on the designer floor.