Pollini
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 20, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
Until the Pollini show, there hadn¿t been much allusion, direct or indirect, to the conflict in the Middle East this season. Rifat Ozbek changed that with his second look out: an innocuous-looking short silver shift that on closer inspection revealed an embroidered figure—arms in the air, mouth agape—plucked straight from Picasso¿s Guernica. (Of course, this being Ozbek, a designer who always has a lot going on, and this being fashion, it wasn¿t immediately clear how many in the audience had noticed his cri de coeur.)Ozbek kitted out his power babes with all sorts of military regalia, most of it less in-your-face than that opening salvo. Tone-on-tone frogging decorated the collars and lapels of parkas and coats. A black silk jacquard used for a coat-dress and a jacket-mini combo looked for all intents and purposes like a miniature camo print. Then there were the green, red, and purple berets and the leather bags slung around the hips, fanny-pack style.
On the softer side were little dresses with flowers for epaulets and tops decorated all over with chiffon rosettes that were worn with short shorts in a substantial gray-wool knit. All in all, it was a good effort from Ozbek, and those dresses and rosettes were very pretty. (But pretty enough to make you forget the op-ed rumblings of a potential U.S. invasion of Iran, now that Ozbek's brought up the subject? That¿s a different question.)
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Peter Soronen Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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