Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
February 13, 2007 London
It's a very London thing. Where Christopher Kane and Marios Schwab have alluded to Versace, Alaïa, and, as of this week, Romeo Gigli, Preen are the first to make a bid to bring back Claude Montana. However consciously, something about their large, round-shouldered bubble-gum-pink blousons; cowl-hooded knits; and zip-bisected body dresses made an uncanny parallel to the commercial collections Montana used to design in Italy, right down to the top-tights-ankle-boot color coordination. In fairness, Preen can't be castigated for direct copying. They clearly put a vast amount of work into the horizontal pleating effects they used throughout the show, and into the huge number of fawn, purple, and black variations on their theme. As a matter of fact, they could save themselves a lot of trouble if they only did half the work. It would certainly have made for a more concise collection this seasonand spared the audience a migraine.