Pringle of Scotland
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 19, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
If there were any lingering doubts about Pringle¿s identity or the viability of another British revival, Clare Waight Keller went a long way to putting them to rest today. She opened the show with a look that nicely referenced the Scottish cashmere house's heritage: a double layer of slate-gray cable sweaters topping a short, flirty skirt with a ruffle circling the hips. In a season of luxe, chunky knits, hers were the best yet: dense and cozy, without being droopy. And they were innovative to boot. The yoke of a black A-line coat was cashmere crochet, the collar of a silvery lambskin jacket was an oversize mohair cable. Meanwhile, color-blocked fine-gauge cashmere layers—tunics over turtlenecks over slim skirts—looked almost weightless.Riffing on and simultaneously moving beyond the company¿s foundations, Waight Keller used a woven fabric, printed trompe l¿oeil-style to look like an oversize knit, for a bubble dress and a lamp-shade number. Poufy volumes are still a fixation in Milan, but—credit her tenure at Gucci—she also cut a convincing skinny pant. And she nailed evening, too. A burgundy silk-satin top worn over a matching skirt with pleats and a banded hem balanced polish and cool in equal measure. Like other outfits in this show, it proved Pringle can give young women what they really want.
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