February 06, 2007 New York
Paul Poiret, the twentieth-century innovator whose many hallmarks included East Asian motifs, and whose oeuvre will go on display at the Costume Institute come May, could've been one of the show's touchstones. His influence was there in cocooning kimono jackets, the standout of which came in white-and-black fur-trimmed jacquard. And you could see it in the vintage-y twenties dresses dripping in jet. Other embellishments had a more modern dimension. Intricate pleats zigzagged up and down the fronts of chiffon dresses, or crisscrossed at the bodice in a way that resembled the bustier shapes for which this duo is loved. Radzimir dresses in luscious jewel tones were treated similarly.
If these rarefied clothes have a small target audience, that's sort of the pointespecially now that the boys have proved they can reach a large Target audience any time they want with the instant success of their recent high-low collaboration. Exquisite details? Cheap chic? These two talents excel at both.