David Neville and Marcus Wainwright have been honing denim for five years now, but they're still relative newcomers to women┐s ready-to-wear. This time, they cannily mixed equestrian and military references in with their unstudied-cool signature looks. Their reliably sexy stovepipe jeans, for instance, were paired with assured cutaway jackets and double-belted cardigans with elbow patches. Roomier tuxedo pants, with contrasting stripes, were topped by a boyish vest and crisp button-down, or a smart side-closure jacket that fell capelike to the waist.

More girly were the trapeze dresses over skinny pants. While hardly new—Sienna Miller sported the same in the front row—the look was strong: The pants were as thin and easy as leggings, yet scads more chic. The Rag & Bone duo has always had an eye for luxe, but there was a noticeable uptick in their fabrics (especially the tan wool plaid that was cut into a short jacket and a pleated knee-length skirt to open the show). So it was a disappointment to see shoes that were clunky and, in one case, coming apart at the heel. Ultimately, though, they didn't weigh down a confident collection that showed marked strides in cut and fit.