Glamazon looks are what Roberto Cavalli is famous, or perhaps notorious, for. But over the past few seasons, he¿s been reining things in at his signature line. Today's runway set looked straight out of old Hollywood, and the clothes like something borrowed from the soigné wardrobe of a Clark Gable and Carole Lombard flick. Models sported slim safari jackets, swaggering furs with toggle closures, and jodhpurs (OK, jodhpurs aren¿t the most flattering look invented) with crisp, mannish button-downs and matching ties. The Lombard part of the equation came in billowy dressing gowns in Liberty peacock prints, more structured forties-style dresses (a real Fall trend), and a great-looking silvery short fur over a demure satin dress that turned to reveal a thigh-high slit.

The masculine/feminine theme extended into evening, where Cavalli showed black smokings and boxier suits in white satin alongside the hot cha-cha gowns that are his stock-in-trade. Of the latter, a metallic-blue bustier number with an asymmetric strap and a green goddess dress crisscrossed with sequin bands looked light and youthful. A beaded-all-over halter and a clingy gold sequin column with a fishtail hem, on the other hand, looked less fresh, and brought flashbacks of the brasher Cavalli of yore. The designer, like his front-row star, Steven Tyler, may be a rocker forever, but he has been wise of late to steer his work in a more elegant, even decorous direction.