┐American football. Cheerleaders. Angie Bowie. Mr. Fish┐. These were the inspirations Richard Nicoll rattled off backstage before his show, adding for good measure, ┐It┐s joyful daywear inspired by eveningwear.┐ Actually, what he meant was that he┐d found some new things to do with shirts, specifically the signature striped, bib-fronted men┐s style for which he┐s received a lot of recognition these past two seasons.

The best pieces were the most elaborate, in black-and-white stripes falling to long, curved tails front and back, finished with piping details, corseted implants, pie-frill peplums, belts, and chunky Swarovksi buttons. Some had shoulder patches picked out in crystal, and others had stars appliquéd into their flanks. A couple of sweatshirt-inspired reproportioned knits with deep ribbing added a new dimension to the collection. Where he went wrong was with the fringe and cross-lacing. It might have seemed like ironic, playful Americana in the studio, but it messed up a few too many outfits to be funny.