Martine Sitbon left the Paris runway scene in 2004, but judging by the arty crowd at her comeback show (her new collection is named after the address of her atelier), she's hardly been forgotten. One of the things she's remembered affectionately for is an edgy sense of romanticism, but at first today she worked more of a tough chic vibe. A streamlined black satin trench was followed by other tailored pieces with doubled collars and padded details on the sleeves.

There were also plenty of sweet dresses, though. They trotted out on wedges and stacked-heel pumps, and in keeping with the swing of things, hems were short and silhouettes were full. The weak link was a clunky number made from what looked frankly like a cream chenille bedspread. The best pieces were almost sculptural, with wire hems that circled the legs, curving gracefully at one knee to create an abstract flower and reveal asymmetric tiers beneath. In the mix were lots more bubble and lamp-shade shapes.

Her fans seemed pleased enough with all this, but it bears noting that the competition for attention in the crowded French calendar has become even more fierce since Sitbon's departure; to maintain the enthusiasm she was greeted with today, she may have to kick things up a notch or two.