The opening look at Stella McCartney—a frankly fake fur ingeniously fashioned from dense whorls of hand-tufted yarn—set the tone: Welcome to one of the least pretentious and most playful shows of Paris fashion week. The fun continued with knits, including a hard-to-miss oversize red-and-black cardigan woven into a polar-bear pattern. And last season¿s rompers grew legs, becoming fine-gauge jumpsuits in hot pink or sweatshirt gray.

It wasn't all games. Outerwear was sportif too, but also seriously chic. McCartney focused on loose, flaring, of-the-moment silhouettes like trapeze coats and capes. Hooded anoraks were adorably egg-shaped.

Fans of her sophisticated Savile Row suits, though, will have to content themselves with a satin-lapel smoking and a cropped, double-breasted jacket with brass buttons. The look at Stella is extremely young and very long on leg, which meant few pants and short, short, short hems on baby-doll smocks, petticoat dresses, and curvy bustier styles. For extra cheek, she paired them with ankle boots and socks. Count on McCartney to bring the charm.