┐Beauty in exile,┐ said Alice Temperley before her show. ┐It┐s all about the Russian emigration to Paris after the Revolution.┐

Following a plain-Jane Spring showing, the invocation of Diaghilev and the Ballets Russes for Fall must have been sweet music to the ears of her steadfast fans. They┐re an international clique of girls who plunk down the plastic for her boho, ultrafeminine fare even in seasons when minimalism otherwise rules, and they┐ll likely love the crafty passementerie on the new blouses and dresses.

Shaking off her reputation for being solely a frock star, Temperley ventured further into more structured pieces: lean Victorian jackets, wide trousers, and tulip skirts. Tailoring isn┐t exactly her bag, but the jackets—especially a pintucked Le Smoking—were very worthy of attention. The ornate Byzantine headpieces were not: Such a costumey touch felt out of place in a line that is much more about wearability than grand gesture.